Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children do not want to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these tales and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
